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Capón Armado

by
Ruperto de Nola 
recipe no. 86 from the “Libre del Coch” or “Libro de Guisados, manjares y potajes”  of the mid 15th c.

Note: Instructions in normal letters are pretty clear in the original. My interpretations are in italics.

Ingredients:

  • 1 capon, or large chicken
  • fatty bacon
  • several (raw) egg yolks, beat together
  • pine nuts and clean (peeled, white) almonds
  • sugar
  • parsley (non-fancy, flat-leafed, aromatic kind, if possible -it makes a difference!)

To make it

  1. "Emborrozar" the capon (cover it with thin slices of bacon so that it keeps moist and juicy and doesn't burn; use toothpicks to hold it in place, if necessary).
  2. Roast it for half of the total roasting time.
  3. When that time is coming, beat the yolks with the parsley and the sugar. 
  4. When the "half time" arrives, take the bird out of the oven and cover it with the yolk sauce. Place pine nuts and almonds all over it, sticking them to the sauce.
  5. Cover it again with bacon and return it to the oven for the remaining time.

My experiences

In March 2000, I prepared one with:
  • 1 chicken (1,7 kg, 3 3/4 pounds)
  • 3 egg yolks)
  • 3 teaspoons of sugar
  • minced parsley
  • a good handful of pine nuts and blanched almonds
  • lard and meaty bacon

Because the bacon I had was too meaty, I smeared the chicken with lard and covered it with aluminium foil instead. I determined the total roasting time as 1hour and 15 minutes at 200-220ºC (390-430ºF), and roasted it for around half that time.
I prepared the sauce with the egg yolks, sugar and parsley and smeared it all over the chicken. I tried sticking the almonds and pine nuts to it but many fell off. I covered it with the meaty thick bacon I had and put it back in the oven. Once done, I took off the bacon and we served it.
It was good, though a bit dull to my taste (but then, I consider meat as a nice thing to serve sauces with - your mileage may vary). The bad part is that many of the almonds and nuts fell off. I list possible causes (and solutions I intend to try) to this problem:

  • perhaps the sauce was not thick and sticky enough
    • I will try with a bunch of chicken legs, smearing each with sauce having changing quantities of sugar to see if some get sticky enough.
  • perhaps when you use the same bacon covering the top during both halves of the roasting period less fat drips down onto the chicken on the second half, because the bacon is already drier; while I placed fresh bacon during the second half
    • I will use drier, fattier, bacon and use it through the whole of the roasting process
    • cheating: use lard (or oil) and aluminium foil cover on the first half, and just the aluminium cover on the second half.
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